A few weeks ago I had the privilege of visiting Chachapoyas for the first time, a jewel in the heart of the northern jungle of Peru. When the opportunity arose to be part of a FamTrip (familiarization trip) to this destination, I did not hesitate to accept. Initially, I wondered if Chachapoyas was the capital of the San Martín or Amazonas region, both located in the lush north of Peru. The answer, as I discovered, is Amazon. I knew two things about this place: that it is the starting point to explore the majestic ruins of Kuelap and the impressive Gocta waterfall, and that I couldn’t wait to get there and immerse myself in its magic, even if it was just for a weekend. The excitement of discovering a new destination, one that until then I had only seen in photos or heard about in stories, was palpable. It was ready to fill the soul and recharge with a dose of adventure and mystery.
Team del viaje
Day 1: Getting to know the city
We met the other members of the trip in the afternoon at the Lima airport, which was the ideal preamble to get to know each other and then take the direct Atsa Airlines flight that lasted just over an hour to Chachapoyas. I was worried about landing at night and losing the opportunity to see the entrance to the city from above and get a first impression of its streets in daylight. However, the surprises began immediately. We landed just before sunset, with wonderful golden light beautifying everything. From the air, you can see that everything is green, absolutely everything. When I got off the plane, I experienced a familiar sensation that many of us can have when visiting cities that are not capitals or lack the omnipresence of modernity: everything becomes more beautiful, more innocent, more genuine.
Vista de Chachapoyas
On the way to the hotel, which was 10 minutes from the square by car and in the middle of the countryside, it had already gotten dark and it was starting to get cold. Chachapoyas is distinguished by its unique ability to connect two regional universes: a densely populated eyebrow jungle, rich in wildlife and biodiversity, and a rugged mountain range, where the nights are cold and the dry, frozen air of the Andes offers a sensation of purity when breathing.
After arriving at the hotel, settling in and resting briefly, we went out to explore the city center. Chachapoyas is very pretty, cozy and quite tidy. Its center, which includes the main square and its surroundings, is reminiscent of Cusco for its colonial houses and cobblestone streets. A curiosity about this city is that it is the first in Peru to prohibit the circulation of motorcycle taxis, which makes it more orderly and less chaotic than other cities in the interior.
Centro de la ciudad
We walked through the center, visiting squares, churches and streets. One feels safe walking through this destination, and it is not in vain that it is considered one of the safest cities in the country, if not the safest.
That night we ate at a downtown restaurant called ‘El Batán del Tayta’, known for fusing its dishes and drinks with local ingredients such as banana and pork jerky, as well as tropical fruits and edible insects on the drinks menu. It was a great way to start the trip.
Before returning to the hotel, we visited the Plaza de Armas, beautifully illuminated with warm light and surrounded by local businesses, highlighting the cathedral basilica. The excellent impression I got from Chachapoyas on this first day only increased my enthusiasm to explore more. I was ready for what was next, after a well-deserved night’s rest at the hotel.
Day 2: The Domains of an Ancient Civilization
I woke up after spending a quiet night, without noise and surrounded by countryside. I was the first to arrive for breakfast, very excited and wanting to make the most of the day. Today it was time to visit the Kuelap fortress, an impressive pre-Inca construction located in the province of Luya, about 3,000 meters above sea level. and approximately an hour and a half from the city.
Fortaleza de Kuélap
Kuelap is the main monument of the Chachapoyas culture, which dates back to 500 AD. Our mobility left us at the checkpoint to board the cable car, the most direct and fastest way to get there due to its location at the top of an imposing rocky mountain. This cable car left me impressed; It has nothing to envy others in the world. What makes it even more special is the incredible view it offers: we pass between two large mountains, observing ancestral tombs embedded in the hills and a meandering river that can be seen in the distance from the heights. It is simply impressive, not only because of the natural beauty of the landscape, but also because of the unique vegetation, protected by the regional government, with such particular species of flowers and plants.
After 20 minutes on the cable car, we began an uphill walk of approximately 40 minutes. I recommend going with light, comfortable clothing, wearing pants because, being at a higher altitude than Chachapoyas, you can feel cold in the shadows, and always well hydrated with water. We enjoyed the nature, the environment, the fresh air and the interesting explanations of the guide who was telling us about the place where we were, information about the Chachapoyas culture, about our location and what we would see. Upon arrival, we were greeted by an impressive stone wall that made us understand why they call this place a fortress, since it surrounds and protects the entire complex, designed in ancient times to watch out for enemies and protect the community.
Teleférico
Once inside, admiration overwhelmed us from all angles. The imposing walls, more than 20 meters high, highlight the skill and ingenuity of the inhabitants of the Chachapoyas culture to build on such high and difficult-to-reach terrain. Our eyes were immediately drawn to the circular stone structures, more than 400 identified so far, that served, among other things, as homes. This shows that Kuelap was not just a fortress, but a complete community, almost a small city. In addition, from many points of the site you can enjoy a spectacular view of the Utcubamba Valley.
After more than an hour of travel, we began our way back to take the cable car back to the city. As I reviewed everything I had experienced and learned, a mixture of emotions invaded me.
I felt a deep connection to the story; Walking among the remains of the fortress inevitably transports you to another era, imagining what life was like more than a thousand years ago.
I also experienced a deep tranquility that led me to reflect. The height and isolation of Kuelap create a calm and serene environment, while the majesty of the natural landscape invites us to contemplate how small we are, surrounded by a lush forest of clouds and imposing mountains.
Tacacho con cecina
Once you finish the tour, you can’t help but order a fried corn tortilla with sweet potato, a refreshing trout ceviche, or the Peruvian classic of corn with cheese at the food stand outside. I returned to the city happy, full of new knowledge and reflections, ready more than ever to face what would come the next day, which would be the biggest challenge: the famous Gocta waterfall.
Day 3: The Force of Nature
The day I had been looking forward to most of the trip finally arrived. We got up very early to leave for the town where we would leave our mobility to begin the walk. Cocachimba is a charming town in the jungle, picturesque and cozy. Its central plaza is an extensive garden without a trace of concrete, all green and remarkably orderly. There is no trace of chaos, quite the opposite; It is a serene place that invites you to rest and, at the same time, seek new adventures.
Cocachimba
We used a store that doubles as a restaurant to prepare, buy water and supplies. In my case, I took the opportunity to change my long pants for shorts, knowing that the walk that awaited us would be long and hot, entering a jungle climate. After registering our attendance and committing to bring back all the plastic we had, we began the hike. It is a challenging route, due to the ups and downs of the road. However, it is well marked and does not have a significant altitude, which helps maintain resistance due to the higher oxygen content in the air.
The path to the waterfall is incredible. You have to experience it to fully appreciate it. Walking in the jungle, surrounded by so much nature, provides a unique and beautiful feeling. You feel part of the ecosystem, aware of entering a foreign land that deserves to be cared for and respected to live the best possible experience.
The connection with nature in these places is so deep that it makes you feel more connected to the natural environment and more aware of the beauty and fragility of the environment.
Caminata a catarata de Gocta
During the three-hour walk, there are points to stop, take photos, breathe deeply, and recharge. Along the way, different aromas of plants, trees and vegetation in general are perceived, in addition to the aroma of coffee, since this place has an ideal climate for its cultivation. You can also hear the varied sounds of the environment, such as bird songs, the constant chorus of insects, the silence itself and, of course, the imposing roar of the water falling from the waterfall.
The closer you get, the more intensely you hear the roar of water falling from more than 700 meters high, and your emotions rise with the expectation of witnessing something spectacular. I decided to prepare for the moment, so I walked alone for the last 20 minutes, put on my headphones and chose a playlist according to the moment. When I spotted the main viewing point, I turned off the music and surrendered completely to what I was about to witness. As I got closer, the sound of the water intensified, adding a dramatic touch to the scene. I left behind the leafy tunnel of plants and trees to reach an open space and finally contemplate the reason for so much effort: the impressive Gocta waterfall. I was speechless at such a wonder. A few tears of joy came out of my eyes when I was in that place, at that moment, and even now when I remember it I feel a deep nostalgia, because there are few moments in life when one feels so blessed.
Catarata de Gocta
After contemplating for a long time and capturing photos and videos, I felt a deep desire to be grateful for the experience. I remembered something that a friend taught me years ago in a special place in the Sacred Valley in Cusco, at a precise moment. I made a small offering to the earth in my own way, using a Kintu, a bouquet of three coca leaves that is offered to Pachamama (mother earth) as gratitude for everything received, asking permission to enter her domain and requesting her protection. , aware of how insignificant one feels before the greatness of nature.
After reflecting on my emotions for a moment, I decided to descend further to get as close as possible. Without thinking much and taking advantage of the favorable conditions, I changed into my swimwear and water shoes to get into the pool. Even though it was very cold, around 8 degrees, with the wind it felt even colder, almost as if it were 0 degrees. Still, I made it. Although the waterfall was not even at 40% of its power, it was still strong enough to experience its impact.
Chapuzón en la catarata
The guides who accompanied us told us that when the waterfall is at its peak, the roar can be heard for an hour before and it is impossible to get as close as we did. I stood in the water, cold, but feeling clean and refreshed, absorbing all the energy of bathing in some of the purest water I had ever been in. My advice to those wishing to do the same is to immerse yourself completely, as the wind can intensify the feeling of cold and make it difficult to stay in the water for long. While I was in the water, I could only hear the sound of the waterfall and in the distance, the voices encouraging me and calling my name.
I spent about 10 minutes in the water, renewing and re-energizing myself, until it was time to get out, dry off, change, and take one last look at the impressive waterfall and the beautiful landscape that surrounds it. Then I began the way back, aware that it would be more demanding due to the climb we now had to face. However, every effort was worth it. The return to Cocachimba turned out to be more demanding as I had heard, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. Factors such as talking more with the guide and learning about different types of rare butterflies along the way, drinking two glasses of Guarapo (cane macerate) to recover energy, and continuing to reflect on everything I had just experienced, contributed to making it more bearable. . Furthermore, the lunch that awaited us before returning to Chachapoyas was a great motivation.
Especie rara de mariposa
Después de cumplir con la entrega de los plásticos que llevé, agradecí sinceramente a la señora que atendía en el puesto de control por la maravillosa experiencia.
Especialmente aprecié la grata sorpresa de encontrar el camino hacia Gocta tan limpio y bien cuidado, algo que merece ser destacado en estos tiempos en los que la empatía y el respeto por el medio ambiente a menudo son escasos.